Shin Yeh (欣葉)
177 River Valley Road
Liang Court Shopping Center, #02-19
Singapore 179030
Tel: +65 6338 7337
After so many years in the wilderness, as it were, I am slowly rediscovering an appreciation for how diverse Chinese cooking truly is. Not only did I revisit all the various regional cuisines from Mainland China, I was also recently reminded of Taiwanese cuisine and its dedication to rustic flavours and basic ingredients. My sister selected Shin Yeh as the location for the latest gathering amongst several old family friends – every one of them a foodie and a connoisseur – and it served as a timely reminder of the sheer injustice in simply using the term “Chinese cuisine” to refer to a collection of what could easily be considered cuisines in their own right.
Taiwanese cuisine is largely influenced by the cooking from the mid to southern provinces of China, and especially by Hakka and Hokkien cuisine. There is a healthy appreciation – that is in no way healthful – of the pig and various pork products. Other common ingredients include rice, soy, sesame and the cuisine is marked by a greater tendency to use fruits – especially in savoury dishes.
Shin Yeh is a chain of restaurants in Taiwan dedicated to putting “what mum used to cook” on the table. They are apparently hugely popular there and recently decided to open a branch in Singapore as a joint venture with the Tung Lok group. Shin Yeh Singapore is located in one of the more storied shopping malls in the country’s brief history – Liang Court.
Based on our trip there, Liang Court has transformed itself from a dusty and dimly-lit icon of River Valley Road to a bright and inviting modern shopping mall complementing the development of the surrounding Clarke Quay area. Unfortunately the parking complex is still dusty and dimly-lit; and the basic facilities of the building were in no shape to handle the increased traffic flow brought about by the facelift. An example: there are only three elevators servicing the entire building, all of which seemed to be full with people at every floor. We eventually gave up waiting and took the stairs instead.
Shin Yeh itself is a welcoming space, with an unconventional entrance marked by a water feature and affording an inviting glimpse of the interior to the passer-by. It is decorated in natural colours, and while not necessarily evoking the full feeling of the contemporary look it seems to desire, is a warm and homely enough place to enjoy a good meal. The captain who attended to us was cheery and very helpful – and a combination of our bungling and her obliging advice eventually resulted in our order. There was Chinese tea all round; and the food arrived quickly and did not stop until we begged for mercy.
One of the staples of Taiwanese cuisine is their sweet potato porridge: a basic, bare-bones starch with which to eat the bolder, more rustic flavours of other main dishes. I thought this could have been salted a little more, but as it was it had good texture and the sweet potatoes cooked well.
We ordered a helping of lor bak (卤肉) that I thought was absolutely outstanding. This is pork belly braised in sweet soy sauce and accompanied by bamboo shoots. It was wonderfully complex – the basic sweetness of the sauce complemented by the addition of star anise, nutmeg, galangal and other flavours I could not place. The meat was cooked to the point just before it would all fall apart, tender to the bite and soaking in both its own drippings as well as the braising liquid. But the best part was the sheer fattiness of the pork belly – a cardiologist’s nightmare – but oh so delicious.
Other good dishes were the “ah-ya” vegetables – green and leafy and cooked simply, the “hong zao” meat – deep fried slices of barbequed pork, and the pineapple shrimp. The steamed Soon Hock was flavoured well but had been either overcooked or sitting on the pass for too long. Less impressive were the tofu with preserved vegetables (a tad bland) and the “three-cup” chicken, which was cooked with a little too much basil and was mostly just spice.
The service at Shin Yeh, while well meaning and executed in good humour, fell far short of the standards expected of restaurant dining. For one, none of the servers assigned to our table had any idea how to serve wine. We had two bottles and each happened to be served by a different person. The first server at least knew to present the bottle for a tasting, but then proceeded to top off the glass of the taster and go around the table filling glasses regardless of gender. The second server did not even present the second bottle – a different wine – but instead started going around the table filling everyone’s glasses. But my main gripe was that once our main courses had all been served – and before we had ordered dessert – the servers had started clearing our plates (acceptable) and wiping the table down with a cloth rag (not acceptable). It was extremely off-putting and left me with no mood to eat dessert.
Shin Yeh’s signature dessert is a pastry with sweet and savoury fillings – the savoury a filling of shrimp and radish, while the sweet portion was of red bean paste. I thought the pastry was very well made, but the fillings were nothing to write home about. The kitchen also served up complimentary helpings of muar chee – cubes of glutinous rice paste steamed and covered in sugar as well as ground peanuts. This was decent but nowhere near sweet enough.
One of the paradoxes of trying to recreate “home-cooking” in a restaurant setting is that “home-cooking” means something different to every single individual. It is therefore perhaps impossible to satisfy everyone, and more likely than not a small minority will walk away disappointed and thinking, “That’s not how my mother made that dish.” Trying to create something that will live up to the public’s often romanticized ideals of “home-cooking” is a recipe for disappointment, and trying to create that on a scale with which to feed many mouths is a recipe for disaster. Another conundrum is that it is far harder to stand out, far more difficult to be innovative and distinctive in your cooking with home-cooked staples. To present something new, in the form of something familiar, is a terribly tricky business.
With that said, Shin Yeh is probably one of the more authentic representations of Taiwanese cuisine available to Singaporeans. An added advantage is that it is open late – until 2am – and so represents a great jumping off point for the many clubs and bars around the area. Yet as an addition to the Tung Lok stable of restaurants it is somewhat weak, and certainly not worth a special trip to.
Monday, December 29, 2008
Friday, December 26, 2008
A taste of Singapore, part 3
Good news from the home front! Turns out all that traveling and traversing the island was not necessary - one of the best versions of chye tow kuay was right in my backyard. The Telok Kurau / Still Road area is chock-full of delicious food, and upon the recommendations of many Singaporean food bloggers I decided to try Golden City Fried Carrot Cake in my continuing quest for the perfect chye tow kuay. I was not disappointed.
Chye tow kuay, or fried carrot cake, is Teochew in origin and a dish typically eaten for breakfast. Daikon or white radish is shredded and made into cakes together with rice flour. These cakes are first steamed, then cut into bite-sized chunks and stir-fried with garlic, spring onion, eggs and occasionally chye poh. The "white version" is served that way but the "black version" is further cooked with sweet soy sauce (thereby darkening it). It is commonly held that it is more difficult to do the "white" version well, and so that is the true test of the chye tow kuay cook's culinary genius.
Such is the power of the "Interweb" that one has access to real-time information on just about any subject under the sun. Directions, recipes, movie reviews and of course, food recommendations are now disseminated largely through electronic media rather than print or word of mouth. Of course, there is no guarantee of the validity or the datedness of the information contained on random webpages, but there was such a groundswell of good opinion on Golden City that I just had to try it. What could it hurt - given that the place is about 5 minutes away from where I live?
We arrived at 11 in the morning, timing our arrival to beat both the breakfast and the lunch crowds. Golden City is one of the smaller stalls located within a coffeeshop, at the corner of Telok Kurau Rd and Changi Rd. It marks the start of the foodie's delight - a stretch along Changi Rd that leads into Geylang and is peppered with all manner of hawkers and purveyors, each boasting some of Singapore's best food.
I don't know if I would go as far as to say that this is Singapore's best chye tow kuay, but even if it isn't, it definitely is a serious contender. The texture was sublime - slightly charred on the outside but airy, fluffy and mushy at the same time on the inside. There were prodigious amounts of egg and chye poh, but neither detracted from the fragrance of the carrot cake, itself tinged with the accent of Shaoxing rice wine, The dish came topped with homemade ikan bilis (deep-fried anchovies), which gave the carrot cake a good crunchy mouthfeel and an added salty dimension. My only complaint was the chili - which had a sour note that in any other context might have been interesting and a palate-opener, but in this case was somewhat ill-fitting. But then again, who eats carrot cake for the chili?
We ordered a sample of the "black" version as well, just to do our due diligence. Like the "white" version it was not greasy at all - which becomes more important in the "black" version. One of the things about eating (bad) chye tow kuay, and particularly so for the "black" version, is that it can leave what Singaporeans call a "jelat" feeling - that sickening feeling of overindulgence that manifests itself not only in the back of your mouth, but also in your tummy. This was never a worry with the Golden City version.
One of the best parts about Golden City is that it is right across the street from a stall selling hokkien mee that is cooked over a charcoal flame. I had also heard good things about this version and made sure to save room to try it. With a charcoal flame, a cook can heat all parts of the wok directly, giving him (or her) two distinct advantages over gas cooking. One, and perhaps most obvious, the heat is spread evenly across the wok's cooking surface, resulting in evenly cooked food. Secondly, and perhaps more crucially, because of this added direct cooking surface, the cook can bring his ingredients to doneness much quicker, losing less moisture. Of course, this requires quickness of thought and movement as well as supreme organisation (to have everything ready and in the right place when you need it). The version of hokkien mee at this place had very good flavour and was just wet enough - but the shrimp and the squid were a tad overcooked.
The charcoal-cooked hokkien mee only served to whet my appetite for the real deal, and I directed the party to Telok Kurau Lor J - across from the Eng Seng pepper crab place. There is a temporary structure housing several hawkers that have been relocated there while their stalls are being renovated - including a stall originally from East Coast Road, which was itself an offshoot of the original Geylang Lor 29 stall. This is to say that, in racing terms, this would be a hawker throughbred with pedigree up the wazoo. Like Singapore's other famous hawker lineages - Hock Lam Beef Kway Teow, Katong laksa, Beach Road hae mee and Rochor beancurd - the original Geylang Lor 29 dynasty has inspired multiple successors and copycats and is the stuff of legend. The original stall is apparently still operational and this version at Telok Kurau is a sister shop that I think is just as good if not better.
My mother, in her infinite wisdom, introduced me to this version and I believe that out of all the stellar hokkien mee in the East (and there are many) - this may be my favourite. There is Geylang, there is Bedok Interchange, there is Kim's at Eunos and there is Nam Sing at Old Airport Road. With all these wonderful versions, why would I leave the East? Of course, I recall the days of going to Newton before French classes at MOELC and slurping down the hokkien mee there - the temporary bliss while eating easily muting the sting of the exorbitant prices. I don't know if Newton is still any good, but it is still expensive and still far away, so this place is now my default.
Perhaps it was the fact that the auntie at the stall saw that I had my camera with me, and might have mistaken me for a journalist of some sort - but the shrimp and squid we got here seemed to be extra large. For me, this version checks all the boxes - perfect wetness, right balance of thick and thin egg noodles, depth of flavour, savoury chili accompaniment, and well-cooked ingredients. As an added bonus, there were pieces of zhu you zha (deep fried croutons of pork lard) hidden within the noodles - which Victor likened to finding specks of gold dust.
The thing about hokkien mee is that at its heart - it is a stir-fried dish. It therefore cannot be too wet, but needs to have just enough moisture for that gooey texture (and to facilitate slurping, obviously). The hokkien mee cook has to fry the (pre-boiled) noodles to cook them through and give them texture, then add the stock and sauce and cook that down. The noodles have to absorb the liquid to the point where they are saturated with all its flavour, and the remnants of that liquid should coat the noodles like gravy coats the back of a spoon - no more, no less. It takes a great deal of timing and an eagle eye or a sense of when the ingredients are ready. When done right, the resulting dish is pure magic.
All in all, it was a successful day (and productive too, for we managed to run several errands for Winnie), and we drove home satiated and satisfied. I felt like I had thoroughly earned my afternoon nap, which made the slumber that much sweeter.
Golden City Carrot Cake
1 Telok Kurau Road (at Changi Rd)
Open 7.30am - 2pm, closed Tuesdays
Charcoal Fried Hokkien Mee
324T Changi Rd
Open 11am - 10pm, closed Tuesdays
Geylang Lor 29 Hokkien Mee
1 Telok Kurau Lor J (at Still Rd)
Open 11.30am - 9.30pm, closed Mondays
Chye tow kuay, or fried carrot cake, is Teochew in origin and a dish typically eaten for breakfast. Daikon or white radish is shredded and made into cakes together with rice flour. These cakes are first steamed, then cut into bite-sized chunks and stir-fried with garlic, spring onion, eggs and occasionally chye poh. The "white version" is served that way but the "black version" is further cooked with sweet soy sauce (thereby darkening it). It is commonly held that it is more difficult to do the "white" version well, and so that is the true test of the chye tow kuay cook's culinary genius.
Such is the power of the "Interweb" that one has access to real-time information on just about any subject under the sun. Directions, recipes, movie reviews and of course, food recommendations are now disseminated largely through electronic media rather than print or word of mouth. Of course, there is no guarantee of the validity or the datedness of the information contained on random webpages, but there was such a groundswell of good opinion on Golden City that I just had to try it. What could it hurt - given that the place is about 5 minutes away from where I live?
We arrived at 11 in the morning, timing our arrival to beat both the breakfast and the lunch crowds. Golden City is one of the smaller stalls located within a coffeeshop, at the corner of Telok Kurau Rd and Changi Rd. It marks the start of the foodie's delight - a stretch along Changi Rd that leads into Geylang and is peppered with all manner of hawkers and purveyors, each boasting some of Singapore's best food.
I don't know if I would go as far as to say that this is Singapore's best chye tow kuay, but even if it isn't, it definitely is a serious contender. The texture was sublime - slightly charred on the outside but airy, fluffy and mushy at the same time on the inside. There were prodigious amounts of egg and chye poh, but neither detracted from the fragrance of the carrot cake, itself tinged with the accent of Shaoxing rice wine, The dish came topped with homemade ikan bilis (deep-fried anchovies), which gave the carrot cake a good crunchy mouthfeel and an added salty dimension. My only complaint was the chili - which had a sour note that in any other context might have been interesting and a palate-opener, but in this case was somewhat ill-fitting. But then again, who eats carrot cake for the chili?
We ordered a sample of the "black" version as well, just to do our due diligence. Like the "white" version it was not greasy at all - which becomes more important in the "black" version. One of the things about eating (bad) chye tow kuay, and particularly so for the "black" version, is that it can leave what Singaporeans call a "jelat" feeling - that sickening feeling of overindulgence that manifests itself not only in the back of your mouth, but also in your tummy. This was never a worry with the Golden City version.
One of the best parts about Golden City is that it is right across the street from a stall selling hokkien mee that is cooked over a charcoal flame. I had also heard good things about this version and made sure to save room to try it. With a charcoal flame, a cook can heat all parts of the wok directly, giving him (or her) two distinct advantages over gas cooking. One, and perhaps most obvious, the heat is spread evenly across the wok's cooking surface, resulting in evenly cooked food. Secondly, and perhaps more crucially, because of this added direct cooking surface, the cook can bring his ingredients to doneness much quicker, losing less moisture. Of course, this requires quickness of thought and movement as well as supreme organisation (to have everything ready and in the right place when you need it). The version of hokkien mee at this place had very good flavour and was just wet enough - but the shrimp and the squid were a tad overcooked.
The charcoal-cooked hokkien mee only served to whet my appetite for the real deal, and I directed the party to Telok Kurau Lor J - across from the Eng Seng pepper crab place. There is a temporary structure housing several hawkers that have been relocated there while their stalls are being renovated - including a stall originally from East Coast Road, which was itself an offshoot of the original Geylang Lor 29 stall. This is to say that, in racing terms, this would be a hawker throughbred with pedigree up the wazoo. Like Singapore's other famous hawker lineages - Hock Lam Beef Kway Teow, Katong laksa, Beach Road hae mee and Rochor beancurd - the original Geylang Lor 29 dynasty has inspired multiple successors and copycats and is the stuff of legend. The original stall is apparently still operational and this version at Telok Kurau is a sister shop that I think is just as good if not better.
My mother, in her infinite wisdom, introduced me to this version and I believe that out of all the stellar hokkien mee in the East (and there are many) - this may be my favourite. There is Geylang, there is Bedok Interchange, there is Kim's at Eunos and there is Nam Sing at Old Airport Road. With all these wonderful versions, why would I leave the East? Of course, I recall the days of going to Newton before French classes at MOELC and slurping down the hokkien mee there - the temporary bliss while eating easily muting the sting of the exorbitant prices. I don't know if Newton is still any good, but it is still expensive and still far away, so this place is now my default.
Perhaps it was the fact that the auntie at the stall saw that I had my camera with me, and might have mistaken me for a journalist of some sort - but the shrimp and squid we got here seemed to be extra large. For me, this version checks all the boxes - perfect wetness, right balance of thick and thin egg noodles, depth of flavour, savoury chili accompaniment, and well-cooked ingredients. As an added bonus, there were pieces of zhu you zha (deep fried croutons of pork lard) hidden within the noodles - which Victor likened to finding specks of gold dust.
The thing about hokkien mee is that at its heart - it is a stir-fried dish. It therefore cannot be too wet, but needs to have just enough moisture for that gooey texture (and to facilitate slurping, obviously). The hokkien mee cook has to fry the (pre-boiled) noodles to cook them through and give them texture, then add the stock and sauce and cook that down. The noodles have to absorb the liquid to the point where they are saturated with all its flavour, and the remnants of that liquid should coat the noodles like gravy coats the back of a spoon - no more, no less. It takes a great deal of timing and an eagle eye or a sense of when the ingredients are ready. When done right, the resulting dish is pure magic.
All in all, it was a successful day (and productive too, for we managed to run several errands for Winnie), and we drove home satiated and satisfied. I felt like I had thoroughly earned my afternoon nap, which made the slumber that much sweeter.
Golden City Carrot Cake
1 Telok Kurau Road (at Changi Rd)
Open 7.30am - 2pm, closed Tuesdays
Charcoal Fried Hokkien Mee
324T Changi Rd
Open 11am - 10pm, closed Tuesdays
Geylang Lor 29 Hokkien Mee
1 Telok Kurau Lor J (at Still Rd)
Open 11.30am - 9.30pm, closed Mondays
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Friends don't let friends listen to bad music
The new year is almost upon us, and everyone around me is making lists. Shopping lists, lists of resolutions for next year, best-of and worst-of lists from the year before – it goes on. I am not by nature a maker of lists, but just for the heck of it I made a short one – choosing five guilty pleasures from 2008. This was not a good year for music, I don’t think – not much came out that I really liked – but from among the drivel I picked out five of my favourite tracks, and thought of what I would like to eat and drink with them.
I’m Not Going to Teach Your Boyfriend (How To Dance With You) – Black Kids
I discovered the Black Kids relatively late, and I blame Jeff Schwartz entirely for neglecting to inform me of them when he himself came across them three months before I did. I then proceeded to listen to this track on repeat as well as talk the ears off anyone who would listen. A wailing frontman, dance-y pop with lots of synth, a melodic bassline and Go Team!-style group counting? I mean, what’s not to like?
Food pairing: Buo luo bao – “pineapple bun” in Chinese but it doesn’t actually contain any pineapple. It’s sort of like a Chinese muffin – the bottom is made of sweet bread dough; the top is made of sugar cookie dough, and is often crusted with sugar. There is usually custard inside the bun itself. An all around sweet treat.
Beverage pairing: Something saccharine-sweet yet deadly. I’m going to go with Firefly sweet-tea infused vodka, with three cubes of ice and a slice of lemon.
That’s Not My Name – The Ting Tings
Everyone around the world whose name has ever been forgotten, mispronounced or just plain disregarded – can relate to this song. It is also a great ditty to dance your cares away to and I associate this song with many fun nights at Liberation Dance Party – so, really, the choice of beverage pairing picked itself.
Food pairing: Something little-known and underappreciated, obviously, and also something that doesn’t give two hoots about what anyone else thinks in terms of style, presentation, healthiness - and is just generally bad-ass like that. I think I’d pick a chicken shawarma wrap with lots of onions, from one of those late night kebab stands.
Beverage pairing: I think you really need a drink that says, “it’s MY hot body, I do what I want”. It has to be deceptively simple and yet pack a punch, something that makes you sit up and take notice. And because this song reminds me so much of LDP, there is no other drink I’d rather have with it than a nice, chilled shot of Jaegermeister. It is the Devil’s brew itself in so many ways, but oh so delicious.
Lost Coastlines – Okkervil River
I was so mad that I couldn’t get to see this band at ACL when I went; I really liked their latest album and was looking forward to it. On the bright side, Jenna got to go in my stead, so that kind of counts as good enough. Almost.
Food pairing: What other food is better for introspection than a bar of Scharffen Berger 62% Cacao Mocha chocolate?
Beverage pairing: The melodic instrumentation and run-on lyrics scream a nice cold brew to me; not just any brew, but I'm thinking a solid, working class brew that has been appropriated by the painfully hipster among us. PBR would be too obvious a choice, so I’m going with a nice Shinerbock in a bottle – entirely fitting for this band from Texas.
Lights Out – Santogold
This is one of those songs that you’ll really like when you hear, but less than five minutes after it’s over you’ll completely forget how it went. Great song to put on the dinner party mix.
Food pairing: This song is pure penthouse cocktail hour on the Upper West Side, so definitely an hors d’oeuvre for this one. It might be blurring the line between food and beverage, but what about a nice watermelon gazpacho, served in a tall shot glass?
Beverage pairing: Something classy and classic, that’s both playful and lady-like at the same time. I’m going to have to plump for a gin gimlet here, but only if it’s made with Hendrick’s gin.
Blind – Hercules and Love Affair
Love it, love it, love it. Don't care if Nomi Ruiz is transgender, she has a hell of a body, and this is a hell of a song.
Food pairing: This makes me want to eat a salad of beets, frisee, mixed greens and pecans, topped with duck confit and drizzled with raspberry vinaigrette.
Beverage pairing: I think a nice classy red for this one, not too heavy or full-bodied. Perhaps the playfulness and the ephemerality of a Pinot Noir? I know just the Burgundy for this: the Musigni from Domaine Gros Frere et Soeur, Clos de Vougeot, 2003.
I’m Not Going to Teach Your Boyfriend (How To Dance With You) – Black Kids
I discovered the Black Kids relatively late, and I blame Jeff Schwartz entirely for neglecting to inform me of them when he himself came across them three months before I did. I then proceeded to listen to this track on repeat as well as talk the ears off anyone who would listen. A wailing frontman, dance-y pop with lots of synth, a melodic bassline and Go Team!-style group counting? I mean, what’s not to like?
Food pairing: Buo luo bao – “pineapple bun” in Chinese but it doesn’t actually contain any pineapple. It’s sort of like a Chinese muffin – the bottom is made of sweet bread dough; the top is made of sugar cookie dough, and is often crusted with sugar. There is usually custard inside the bun itself. An all around sweet treat.
Beverage pairing: Something saccharine-sweet yet deadly. I’m going to go with Firefly sweet-tea infused vodka, with three cubes of ice and a slice of lemon.
That’s Not My Name – The Ting Tings
Everyone around the world whose name has ever been forgotten, mispronounced or just plain disregarded – can relate to this song. It is also a great ditty to dance your cares away to and I associate this song with many fun nights at Liberation Dance Party – so, really, the choice of beverage pairing picked itself.
Food pairing: Something little-known and underappreciated, obviously, and also something that doesn’t give two hoots about what anyone else thinks in terms of style, presentation, healthiness - and is just generally bad-ass like that. I think I’d pick a chicken shawarma wrap with lots of onions, from one of those late night kebab stands.
Beverage pairing: I think you really need a drink that says, “it’s MY hot body, I do what I want”. It has to be deceptively simple and yet pack a punch, something that makes you sit up and take notice. And because this song reminds me so much of LDP, there is no other drink I’d rather have with it than a nice, chilled shot of Jaegermeister. It is the Devil’s brew itself in so many ways, but oh so delicious.
Lost Coastlines – Okkervil River
I was so mad that I couldn’t get to see this band at ACL when I went; I really liked their latest album and was looking forward to it. On the bright side, Jenna got to go in my stead, so that kind of counts as good enough. Almost.
Food pairing: What other food is better for introspection than a bar of Scharffen Berger 62% Cacao Mocha chocolate?
Beverage pairing: The melodic instrumentation and run-on lyrics scream a nice cold brew to me; not just any brew, but I'm thinking a solid, working class brew that has been appropriated by the painfully hipster among us. PBR would be too obvious a choice, so I’m going with a nice Shinerbock in a bottle – entirely fitting for this band from Texas.
Lights Out – Santogold
This is one of those songs that you’ll really like when you hear, but less than five minutes after it’s over you’ll completely forget how it went. Great song to put on the dinner party mix.
Food pairing: This song is pure penthouse cocktail hour on the Upper West Side, so definitely an hors d’oeuvre for this one. It might be blurring the line between food and beverage, but what about a nice watermelon gazpacho, served in a tall shot glass?
Beverage pairing: Something classy and classic, that’s both playful and lady-like at the same time. I’m going to have to plump for a gin gimlet here, but only if it’s made with Hendrick’s gin.
Blind – Hercules and Love Affair
Love it, love it, love it. Don't care if Nomi Ruiz is transgender, she has a hell of a body, and this is a hell of a song.
Food pairing: This makes me want to eat a salad of beets, frisee, mixed greens and pecans, topped with duck confit and drizzled with raspberry vinaigrette.
Beverage pairing: I think a nice classy red for this one, not too heavy or full-bodied. Perhaps the playfulness and the ephemerality of a Pinot Noir? I know just the Burgundy for this: the Musigni from Domaine Gros Frere et Soeur, Clos de Vougeot, 2003.
Thursday, December 18, 2008
A taste of Singapore, part 2
A while ago I promised Shanaz to embark on an island-wide hunt for the best white chye tow kuay in Singapore. She had very specific criteria for what she wanted, and through my research and multiple conversations with taxi drivers I had identified three possible candidates. The other day Victor and I set out on our mission for the Holy Grail, but were thwarted at every step. The version at Bedok Interchange had a wonderful texture and lightness of flavour, and was - very importantly - not too greasy. Unfortunately it was hardly fragrant enough, and did not have enough chye poh. It was nevertheless pretty good, but the perfectionists in us would not allow us to settle. Sadly it wound up being the only version we would try that day, for we travelled to our second location at Blk 820 Tampines St 81 only to find that the stall in question had either closed or moved to an unknown location. A tremendous pity, for the person we spoke to while we were there started reminiscing and waxing lyrical about it, his eyes on the verge of misting over. Our third location - Blk 724 Ang Mo Kio Ave 6 - came up empty as well, as we found the stall shuttered and a sign indicating that the owners were out of town on vacation.
So we returned home defeated, but the day was not a complete waste. We got to try some of Singapore's best food and found out which ones of Singapore's many eating establishments had fallen from their lofty standards. (The hae mee and nasi lemak at Adam Road are both, sadly, pale shadows of their former selves.) It takes a unique blend of talent, discipline, sheer determination and a healthy dose of good fortune to get to the top and stay there - and the unforgiving nature of the Singaporean people's palates mean that you get found out as a pretender quickly enough.
One of my favourite breakfast foods is chwee kueh, a rice cake steamed in metal saucers and then topped with chye poh (pickled radish braised in soy sauce and garlic and finely diced). This dish is deceptively simple to make; the best versions have an airy texture, not overly starchy and can neither be properly chewed (in the correct sense of the word) nor swallowed whole. The result is a happy dilemma, and the saltiness of the chye poh and spice of any accompanying sweet chili are welcome complements.
Another of my favourites is a dish called yu pian mi fen - literally Vermicelli with Fish Slices. These are cooked and served in a thick milky broth made from fish stock and evaporated milk. Slices of Snakehead - a freshwater fish native to Asia and Africa - are either cooked in the broth or breaded, deep-fried and added to the final dish. Snakehead is such a popular food fish in this region because it has a neutral flavour and firm texture, and so is a very versatile medium for the Asian cook. In some versions of this dish, a tablespoon of cognac is added tableside right before serving, which masks any mustiness the fish broth might have and makes it sweeter still.
There is also mee pok - a dish of flat, yellow, egg noodles that has Teochew origins and comes either dry (mee pok tah) or in a broth (mee pok teng). These noodles are usually tossed in a sauce and served with fishballs and/or ground pork. Now, I use the term sauce liberally, for what happens is that chili, oil, vinegar and soy sauce are ladled into the bowl before the noodles are added and the mixture tossed. Any self-respecting classically-trained cook would whisk the liquid ingredients first to create an emulsion and what we can properly call a sauce, but that step is skipped in making mee pok. Because the oil is not emulsified, the noodles in the eventual dish are coated in a sheen of it, and you have to take care to wipe the grease from your lips after eating the dish. It is not the most glamourous of endeavours, but a wholly satisfying one nonetheless.
The secret to mee pok is entirely in the vinegar. The right amount can make or break the entire dish, as the vinegar adds a tang to the sweetness and saltiness of the other ingredients that rounds out the dish very nicely. More importantly, it breaks down the starch in the noodles, making the strands less sticky and their taste more palatable.
It occurs to me that I've written about a lot of noodle dishes. Like I said, they are quite possibly one of, if not my favourite starch. This is by no means wholly representative of Singaporean cuisine - there are lots of other non noodle-based dishes. But for the sake of thoroughness, allow me to go through all the important ones.
Beef kway teow is a dish that sparks a lot of debate. Whether to have it dry or in the broth (dry, of course), whether to add organ meats or just eat it with beef slices and beef balls (organ meats, obviously), and what kind of noodles should you use (I actually like the long and thin white rice noodles rather than kway teow, but on this point I am indifferent). My father used to bring us to the coffeeshop next to Rex Cinema on Mackenzie Road and regale us with tales of the heady 1960's and 70's in Singapore - when the country was celebrating its newfound independence and forging a post-colonial identity of its own. Rex Cinema was where all the cool kids hung out, and an integral part of my parents' courtship. The coffeeshop next door used to serve the best beef noodles I have ever eaten, and goreng pisang that was simply out of this world. Unfortunately it closed in the early 90s, and as far as I know did not reopen elsewhere.
After the closure of that coffeeshop (Rex Cinema itself is still standing and was briefly an ice-skating rink, now it is apparently a discotheque), I went to Hock Lam St for my beef kway teow. It was good, but not as good - and never excited in me the same kind of eager anticipation as the Rex version. We went to the Purvis St outlet for a taste and was sorely disappointed. They had run out of the white rice noodles so I had to make do with the yellow egg ones, and the prices were -in a word - exhorbitant. Granted, it is in a great location (Purvis St is home to such fine dining destinations as Garibaldi and Gunther's, as well as a whole host of other local eateries), but even that does not justify $7 for a small bowl of noodles and a few measly pieces of tripe.
There are also lots of great Malay noodle dishes, and possibly my favourite of them all is mee soto. Soto literally means soup in Malay, and is used in this instance as shortform for soto ayam - chicken soup. This soup is made from a base of chicken stock and what is known as a rempah - a paste of ground shallots, garlic, chilies and spices like coriander, fennel, cumin and the like. The resultant dish of noodles, chicken strips and soup is often topped with green chilies and fried onions for added spice and crunch.
The day was tinged with disappointment - Adam Road was an unexpected letdown, and the unbelievable bad luck not to even try two of our three shortlisted contenders for the perfect chye tow kuay was a bitter pill to swallow. We comforted ourselves with all the good dishes that we did get to eat, and by saying to ourselves that if it were easy, we wouldn't do it. Back to the drawing board, I suppose, and I look forward to the day that I can bring Shanaz some good news.
So we returned home defeated, but the day was not a complete waste. We got to try some of Singapore's best food and found out which ones of Singapore's many eating establishments had fallen from their lofty standards. (The hae mee and nasi lemak at Adam Road are both, sadly, pale shadows of their former selves.) It takes a unique blend of talent, discipline, sheer determination and a healthy dose of good fortune to get to the top and stay there - and the unforgiving nature of the Singaporean people's palates mean that you get found out as a pretender quickly enough.
One of my favourite breakfast foods is chwee kueh, a rice cake steamed in metal saucers and then topped with chye poh (pickled radish braised in soy sauce and garlic and finely diced). This dish is deceptively simple to make; the best versions have an airy texture, not overly starchy and can neither be properly chewed (in the correct sense of the word) nor swallowed whole. The result is a happy dilemma, and the saltiness of the chye poh and spice of any accompanying sweet chili are welcome complements.
Another of my favourites is a dish called yu pian mi fen - literally Vermicelli with Fish Slices. These are cooked and served in a thick milky broth made from fish stock and evaporated milk. Slices of Snakehead - a freshwater fish native to Asia and Africa - are either cooked in the broth or breaded, deep-fried and added to the final dish. Snakehead is such a popular food fish in this region because it has a neutral flavour and firm texture, and so is a very versatile medium for the Asian cook. In some versions of this dish, a tablespoon of cognac is added tableside right before serving, which masks any mustiness the fish broth might have and makes it sweeter still.
There is also mee pok - a dish of flat, yellow, egg noodles that has Teochew origins and comes either dry (mee pok tah) or in a broth (mee pok teng). These noodles are usually tossed in a sauce and served with fishballs and/or ground pork. Now, I use the term sauce liberally, for what happens is that chili, oil, vinegar and soy sauce are ladled into the bowl before the noodles are added and the mixture tossed. Any self-respecting classically-trained cook would whisk the liquid ingredients first to create an emulsion and what we can properly call a sauce, but that step is skipped in making mee pok. Because the oil is not emulsified, the noodles in the eventual dish are coated in a sheen of it, and you have to take care to wipe the grease from your lips after eating the dish. It is not the most glamourous of endeavours, but a wholly satisfying one nonetheless.
The secret to mee pok is entirely in the vinegar. The right amount can make or break the entire dish, as the vinegar adds a tang to the sweetness and saltiness of the other ingredients that rounds out the dish very nicely. More importantly, it breaks down the starch in the noodles, making the strands less sticky and their taste more palatable.
It occurs to me that I've written about a lot of noodle dishes. Like I said, they are quite possibly one of, if not my favourite starch. This is by no means wholly representative of Singaporean cuisine - there are lots of other non noodle-based dishes. But for the sake of thoroughness, allow me to go through all the important ones.
Beef kway teow is a dish that sparks a lot of debate. Whether to have it dry or in the broth (dry, of course), whether to add organ meats or just eat it with beef slices and beef balls (organ meats, obviously), and what kind of noodles should you use (I actually like the long and thin white rice noodles rather than kway teow, but on this point I am indifferent). My father used to bring us to the coffeeshop next to Rex Cinema on Mackenzie Road and regale us with tales of the heady 1960's and 70's in Singapore - when the country was celebrating its newfound independence and forging a post-colonial identity of its own. Rex Cinema was where all the cool kids hung out, and an integral part of my parents' courtship. The coffeeshop next door used to serve the best beef noodles I have ever eaten, and goreng pisang that was simply out of this world. Unfortunately it closed in the early 90s, and as far as I know did not reopen elsewhere.
After the closure of that coffeeshop (Rex Cinema itself is still standing and was briefly an ice-skating rink, now it is apparently a discotheque), I went to Hock Lam St for my beef kway teow. It was good, but not as good - and never excited in me the same kind of eager anticipation as the Rex version. We went to the Purvis St outlet for a taste and was sorely disappointed. They had run out of the white rice noodles so I had to make do with the yellow egg ones, and the prices were -in a word - exhorbitant. Granted, it is in a great location (Purvis St is home to such fine dining destinations as Garibaldi and Gunther's, as well as a whole host of other local eateries), but even that does not justify $7 for a small bowl of noodles and a few measly pieces of tripe.
There are also lots of great Malay noodle dishes, and possibly my favourite of them all is mee soto. Soto literally means soup in Malay, and is used in this instance as shortform for soto ayam - chicken soup. This soup is made from a base of chicken stock and what is known as a rempah - a paste of ground shallots, garlic, chilies and spices like coriander, fennel, cumin and the like. The resultant dish of noodles, chicken strips and soup is often topped with green chilies and fried onions for added spice and crunch.
The day was tinged with disappointment - Adam Road was an unexpected letdown, and the unbelievable bad luck not to even try two of our three shortlisted contenders for the perfect chye tow kuay was a bitter pill to swallow. We comforted ourselves with all the good dishes that we did get to eat, and by saying to ourselves that if it were easy, we wouldn't do it. Back to the drawing board, I suppose, and I look forward to the day that I can bring Shanaz some good news.
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
Thai me up, Thai me down
Cabbages & Condoms
6 Soi 12, Sukhomvit Road
Bangkok 10110, Thailand
+66 02 229 4611
In the same way that cheap Chinese food is often easy to find wherever you travel in the world – more often than not one is also likely to find decent approximations of Thai food. In DC, Regent Thai was a perennial favourite for lunch, as was Thaiphoon right by Dupont Circle. I was grateful for this global culinary colonialisation, grateful for Thai chefs exporting their native cuisine to the far corners of the earth – for from time to time these places satisfied my cravings for spice, and for my hometown flavours like coriander and tamarind.
But for the best (and certainly the cheapest) Thai food, there is no doubt that one has to go to Thailand. This is not a difficult thing to manage if you live in Singapore – it is not that far away, and weekend getaways to resort destinations like Phuket and Koh Samui are relatively affordable. This past weekend a gaggle of us made a trip to Bangkok, the nation’s capital, for a weekend of drunken debauchery, a male ritual otherwise known as the bachelor party.
Warren is getting married in January, and I have known him and his bride-to-be for a long time now. I must say that they are both wonderful people and seem like a great couple together, and I wish them nothing but the best. But before he is lost to the rest of us, there were fun times to be had over the weekend. Those times will not be retold on these pages – for what happens in Bangkok stays in Bangkok – but we did have a couple of good meals worth mentioning.
The tailor that we visited gave us a strange recommendation for dinner – and with a name like Cabbages and Condoms, we had to try it. We had absolutely no idea what to expect, and as we peeled off the main drag of Sukhomvit onto one of its darker, dustier side alleys there was a little feeling of trepidation. But there it was a little ways down, its welcoming and well-lit entryway drawing us in like moths to the fire.
The restaurant was started by former Thai senator Mechai Viravaidya, who believed that “birth control should be as cheap as vegetables”. The result is Cabbages and Condoms – part restaurant, part sex shop, and part functioning clinic for communicable diseases: wholly dedicated to raising awareness of birth control and sexually transmitted diseases like AIDS. In fact, you can get a free vasectomy from the clinic next door after your meal. All proceeds go to the Population & Community Development Association, which organises and funds these community awareness programs.
In addition to its lofty ambitions C&C is also a darned fine restaurant and an excellent showcase of traditional Thai dishes. It is certainly curious walking in and being greeted by life-size statues made entirely out of condoms, or walls draped with birth control pills. We were led to a table in the outdoor garden terrace, the pillars and trees adorned with lights that upon closer inspection turned out to be lanterns made of condoms.
There were five of us at the table, and we each chipped in with selections for a dazzling array of dishes. C&C caters to both locals and foreigners – in addition to the Thai names there were not only English translations but also pictures – and there were the globally ubiquitous dishes of pad thai, tom yum goong and green curry. Yet we eschewed all but the latter in favour of what we could only imagine to be more traditional Thai dishes.
Kevin ordered a dish of fried chicken wrapped in pandan leaves, a dish that my maidservant used to make when I was young. It was very time-consuming so she did it only when she was in the mood for it; but she also smartly used it as barter in exchange for our best behaviour. Pieces of deboned chicken are marinated in milk, with garlic, peppercorns, chillies and coriander; and then individually wrapped in pandan leaves and then pan-fried. Because the leaves seal its juices in, you get very moist and tender pieces of chicken – made impossibly aromatic by the distinctive fragrance of the pandan leaves. The version at C&C was not as aromatic or flavourful as the version I remember from my childhood, but then again, what is? It was nevertheless very, very good and definitely a standout among the other dishes we ordered.
Another standout was a dish of hor mok, familiar to Singaporeans as a Thai version of otak. Pieces of fish, squid and other seafood are ground with herbs and spices into a paste and bound by coconut milk, then wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed to doneness. The version at C&C was freshly steamed, and had a texture somewhat shy of solid, that defied chewing and which can only be described as gooey. It was just spicy enough, seasoned very well, and so nice that we ordered it twice.
Rather less satisfactory was the herbal duck in red curry, which lacked the punch I expected and also was overcooked to a point where the meat was not only falling off the bone but also falling apart. It had lost whatever texture it had had, and most of its flavour.
Despite its little missteps (the service was a little spotty, especially after all our food had been served), Cabbages and Condoms is a rather delightful place, with an atmosphere that can unequivocally be described as romantic. But what the restaurant appears to be saying is that if the mood and the moment do strike, then remember to be safe. Instead of breath mints, the hostesses press condoms into our hands as we leave; smile sincerely, and bid us goodbye.
6 Soi 12, Sukhomvit Road
Bangkok 10110, Thailand
+66 02 229 4611
In the same way that cheap Chinese food is often easy to find wherever you travel in the world – more often than not one is also likely to find decent approximations of Thai food. In DC, Regent Thai was a perennial favourite for lunch, as was Thaiphoon right by Dupont Circle. I was grateful for this global culinary colonialisation, grateful for Thai chefs exporting their native cuisine to the far corners of the earth – for from time to time these places satisfied my cravings for spice, and for my hometown flavours like coriander and tamarind.
But for the best (and certainly the cheapest) Thai food, there is no doubt that one has to go to Thailand. This is not a difficult thing to manage if you live in Singapore – it is not that far away, and weekend getaways to resort destinations like Phuket and Koh Samui are relatively affordable. This past weekend a gaggle of us made a trip to Bangkok, the nation’s capital, for a weekend of drunken debauchery, a male ritual otherwise known as the bachelor party.
Warren is getting married in January, and I have known him and his bride-to-be for a long time now. I must say that they are both wonderful people and seem like a great couple together, and I wish them nothing but the best. But before he is lost to the rest of us, there were fun times to be had over the weekend. Those times will not be retold on these pages – for what happens in Bangkok stays in Bangkok – but we did have a couple of good meals worth mentioning.
The tailor that we visited gave us a strange recommendation for dinner – and with a name like Cabbages and Condoms, we had to try it. We had absolutely no idea what to expect, and as we peeled off the main drag of Sukhomvit onto one of its darker, dustier side alleys there was a little feeling of trepidation. But there it was a little ways down, its welcoming and well-lit entryway drawing us in like moths to the fire.
The restaurant was started by former Thai senator Mechai Viravaidya, who believed that “birth control should be as cheap as vegetables”. The result is Cabbages and Condoms – part restaurant, part sex shop, and part functioning clinic for communicable diseases: wholly dedicated to raising awareness of birth control and sexually transmitted diseases like AIDS. In fact, you can get a free vasectomy from the clinic next door after your meal. All proceeds go to the Population & Community Development Association, which organises and funds these community awareness programs.
In addition to its lofty ambitions C&C is also a darned fine restaurant and an excellent showcase of traditional Thai dishes. It is certainly curious walking in and being greeted by life-size statues made entirely out of condoms, or walls draped with birth control pills. We were led to a table in the outdoor garden terrace, the pillars and trees adorned with lights that upon closer inspection turned out to be lanterns made of condoms.
There were five of us at the table, and we each chipped in with selections for a dazzling array of dishes. C&C caters to both locals and foreigners – in addition to the Thai names there were not only English translations but also pictures – and there were the globally ubiquitous dishes of pad thai, tom yum goong and green curry. Yet we eschewed all but the latter in favour of what we could only imagine to be more traditional Thai dishes.
Kevin ordered a dish of fried chicken wrapped in pandan leaves, a dish that my maidservant used to make when I was young. It was very time-consuming so she did it only when she was in the mood for it; but she also smartly used it as barter in exchange for our best behaviour. Pieces of deboned chicken are marinated in milk, with garlic, peppercorns, chillies and coriander; and then individually wrapped in pandan leaves and then pan-fried. Because the leaves seal its juices in, you get very moist and tender pieces of chicken – made impossibly aromatic by the distinctive fragrance of the pandan leaves. The version at C&C was not as aromatic or flavourful as the version I remember from my childhood, but then again, what is? It was nevertheless very, very good and definitely a standout among the other dishes we ordered.
Another standout was a dish of hor mok, familiar to Singaporeans as a Thai version of otak. Pieces of fish, squid and other seafood are ground with herbs and spices into a paste and bound by coconut milk, then wrapped in a banana leaf and steamed to doneness. The version at C&C was freshly steamed, and had a texture somewhat shy of solid, that defied chewing and which can only be described as gooey. It was just spicy enough, seasoned very well, and so nice that we ordered it twice.
Rather less satisfactory was the herbal duck in red curry, which lacked the punch I expected and also was overcooked to a point where the meat was not only falling off the bone but also falling apart. It had lost whatever texture it had had, and most of its flavour.
Despite its little missteps (the service was a little spotty, especially after all our food had been served), Cabbages and Condoms is a rather delightful place, with an atmosphere that can unequivocally be described as romantic. But what the restaurant appears to be saying is that if the mood and the moment do strike, then remember to be safe. Instead of breath mints, the hostesses press condoms into our hands as we leave; smile sincerely, and bid us goodbye.
Monday, December 08, 2008
A 29 year-old home-made recipe for 'Thank You'
by Simon Salgado
Start with an American base – influences from Upstate New York, LA, DC, Tennessee, and Texas. Pour in some French, Honduran, Thai, Indian, British and Chinese for flavor. Baste with liberal, conservative, Jew, Christian, gay, straight, and be sure to sprinkle in seasoning aged 12 to 83 years. Mix rigorously with students, bankers, economists, therapists, doctors, lawyers, house cleaners, and throw in a former playboy bunny for good measure. Let it simmer for four hours and you have the outrageously delicious and outlandish 50 guest 2008 Salgado Thanksgiving, an ongoing near 30 year tradition.
In the US, Thanksgiving is a festival to give thanks for the harvest and a time to express our gratitude… and what better way to give thanks than to share in an evening filled with good company, feasting on an elaborate spread of delightfully savory and tasty dishes. A nutritionist's worst nightmare, Thanksgiving is a meal where on average, Americans shamelessly consume over 2000 calories in one sitting… atrocious perhaps, gluttonous for sure, and food-coma-licious for certain. As far as I can tell, the only way to make the meal even more over-the-top would be to eat it with no hands…
The matriarch of a tradition that started in 1977, my spunky, energetic, and food-pushing dear Jewish mother organizes an annual Thanksgiving feast with family and mostly friends who have nowhere else to go for the celebration. The guest list has undoubtedly evolved over the years, but it is always a charming cross-section of 50 or so starkly different individuals (at least a handful of whom will share in our feast for the first time) who each bring a unique perspective and dish to the lovely affair. 2008 was no different.
(The hostess with the mostest; and evil mastermind behind the plan to take out some of America's finest with nothing but tryptophan and sugar)
The guests begin to file in at 4 o' clock in the afternoon… warm salutations and long embraces are shared and the young strapping lads and ladies lug in bountiful gourmet concoctions to the grand buffet. A hum of chatter and guffaws fill the room as folks sip on piping hot freshly made apple cider (spiked with white rum if you please!) seasoned with cinnamon, cloves, and orange zest. The aroma of perfectly carved moist turkey and tryptophan permeates the air (2 free range birds and both 30 pounders! an abomination to some animal rights activists, but splendid for this large to-do!).
Other simple, no-nonsense traditional and non-traditional comfort foods are smattered on the table – perfectly glazed cured honey baked ham; heavenly home-made deep fried Thai eggrolls; warm and flaky breaded brie brushed with black currant preserves; rich stuffing baked with grilled onions, mushrooms, peppers and apple sausage; sweet and delicate Nashville corn soufflé that melts in your mouth; bountiful tart cranberry sauce; perfectly baked sweet potato fingers that make your mouth water; and a viscous vegetarian gravy blended with grilled onions, mushrooms, and peppers seasoned in soy, sherry, salt and pepper. There is nothing fancy shmancey about it… just simple, home made and delicious.
The fifty guests make heaping plates and cram into four tables on two floors of our modest town house – impeccably decorated with autumn colored table cloths from all over the world, tasteful antique turkey-like centerpieces, majestic lighted candles, and beautiful calligraphy drawn on shaved bark name plates at each masterfully arranged setting. Fine wine flows freely as the boisterous group chows down, each heavenly bite better than the next. The room fills with pockets of rigorous debate, uproar over the failing economy, horribly bad jokes, obscure sports trivia, and countless shared laughs. Seconds are had, in some cases thirds, and somehow in the gluttony of it all, everyone still has room for dessert… and what a sight the dessert table is to see…
The grand buffet has transformed into a majestic mountain of sinful delights giving new meaning to the term "naughty": rich and creamy flan, a Spanish custard made from condensed and evaporated milk, eggs, caramelized sugar, and some secret ingredients; flaky and rich baked-from-scratch pecan pie with authentic Texas pecans; a wicked chocolate brownie cake with almost torte-like creaminess; a magnificent French Yule Log made with meringue, marzipan, and melt-in-your mouth silky butter cream; freshly baked pumpkin pie spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg. When all is said and done, undoing the old belt and dozing off for a food-coma-induced cat nap is surely in order. Football is watched, hot coffee is sipped, and feet are warmed by the fire place. After some much needed digesting over pleasant conversation, the night is capped with thank you's, affectionate goodbyes, and final embraces.
A 14th century German born theologian, philosopher and mystic, Meister Eckhart, once said that "If the only prayer you ever say in your entire life is thank you, it will be enough." Thanksgiving Day…. sharing food with friends and family… what a great way to give thanks… and what a blessing.
Simon Salgado's mother is a saint. You understand me? She is a saint!
Start with an American base – influences from Upstate New York, LA, DC, Tennessee, and Texas. Pour in some French, Honduran, Thai, Indian, British and Chinese for flavor. Baste with liberal, conservative, Jew, Christian, gay, straight, and be sure to sprinkle in seasoning aged 12 to 83 years. Mix rigorously with students, bankers, economists, therapists, doctors, lawyers, house cleaners, and throw in a former playboy bunny for good measure. Let it simmer for four hours and you have the outrageously delicious and outlandish 50 guest 2008 Salgado Thanksgiving, an ongoing near 30 year tradition.
In the US, Thanksgiving is a festival to give thanks for the harvest and a time to express our gratitude… and what better way to give thanks than to share in an evening filled with good company, feasting on an elaborate spread of delightfully savory and tasty dishes. A nutritionist's worst nightmare, Thanksgiving is a meal where on average, Americans shamelessly consume over 2000 calories in one sitting… atrocious perhaps, gluttonous for sure, and food-coma-licious for certain. As far as I can tell, the only way to make the meal even more over-the-top would be to eat it with no hands…
The matriarch of a tradition that started in 1977, my spunky, energetic, and food-pushing dear Jewish mother organizes an annual Thanksgiving feast with family and mostly friends who have nowhere else to go for the celebration. The guest list has undoubtedly evolved over the years, but it is always a charming cross-section of 50 or so starkly different individuals (at least a handful of whom will share in our feast for the first time) who each bring a unique perspective and dish to the lovely affair. 2008 was no different.
(The hostess with the mostest; and evil mastermind behind the plan to take out some of America's finest with nothing but tryptophan and sugar)The guests begin to file in at 4 o' clock in the afternoon… warm salutations and long embraces are shared and the young strapping lads and ladies lug in bountiful gourmet concoctions to the grand buffet. A hum of chatter and guffaws fill the room as folks sip on piping hot freshly made apple cider (spiked with white rum if you please!) seasoned with cinnamon, cloves, and orange zest. The aroma of perfectly carved moist turkey and tryptophan permeates the air (2 free range birds and both 30 pounders! an abomination to some animal rights activists, but splendid for this large to-do!).
Other simple, no-nonsense traditional and non-traditional comfort foods are smattered on the table – perfectly glazed cured honey baked ham; heavenly home-made deep fried Thai eggrolls; warm and flaky breaded brie brushed with black currant preserves; rich stuffing baked with grilled onions, mushrooms, peppers and apple sausage; sweet and delicate Nashville corn soufflé that melts in your mouth; bountiful tart cranberry sauce; perfectly baked sweet potato fingers that make your mouth water; and a viscous vegetarian gravy blended with grilled onions, mushrooms, and peppers seasoned in soy, sherry, salt and pepper. There is nothing fancy shmancey about it… just simple, home made and delicious.
The fifty guests make heaping plates and cram into four tables on two floors of our modest town house – impeccably decorated with autumn colored table cloths from all over the world, tasteful antique turkey-like centerpieces, majestic lighted candles, and beautiful calligraphy drawn on shaved bark name plates at each masterfully arranged setting. Fine wine flows freely as the boisterous group chows down, each heavenly bite better than the next. The room fills with pockets of rigorous debate, uproar over the failing economy, horribly bad jokes, obscure sports trivia, and countless shared laughs. Seconds are had, in some cases thirds, and somehow in the gluttony of it all, everyone still has room for dessert… and what a sight the dessert table is to see…
The grand buffet has transformed into a majestic mountain of sinful delights giving new meaning to the term "naughty": rich and creamy flan, a Spanish custard made from condensed and evaporated milk, eggs, caramelized sugar, and some secret ingredients; flaky and rich baked-from-scratch pecan pie with authentic Texas pecans; a wicked chocolate brownie cake with almost torte-like creaminess; a magnificent French Yule Log made with meringue, marzipan, and melt-in-your mouth silky butter cream; freshly baked pumpkin pie spiced with cinnamon and nutmeg. When all is said and done, undoing the old belt and dozing off for a food-coma-induced cat nap is surely in order. Football is watched, hot coffee is sipped, and feet are warmed by the fire place. After some much needed digesting over pleasant conversation, the night is capped with thank you's, affectionate goodbyes, and final embraces.
A 14th century German born theologian, philosopher and mystic, Meister Eckhart, once said that "If the only prayer you ever say in your entire life is thank you, it will be enough." Thanksgiving Day…. sharing food with friends and family… what a great way to give thanks… and what a blessing.
Simon Salgado's mother is a saint. You understand me? She is a saint!
Friday, December 05, 2008
A blast from the past
Soon Heng Curry Fish Head Restaurant
39 Kinta Rd
Singapore 219108
+65 6294 6561
Soon Heng is somewhat of a personal Mecca for me, in that one day I must make the trip there. I have eaten their food many times: my grandmother used to buy their fish head curry and curry chicken, among other dishes – and as children we would eat them on our weekly visits to her house. For the longest time I thought my grandmother made those dishes herself, and I was strangely liberated when I found out that they were store-bought and realised that I, too, could have those dishes whenever I wanted them. For a price, of course. Yet even though I am intimately familiar with their cuisine, I have never actually been there, and I consider it a missing piece of my life story puzzle.
Fish head curry is a distinctly Singaporean dish – made possible by the city-state’s unique confluence of Chinese, Malay and Indian culinary traditions. The premise of the dish is simple – the heads of large fishes such as groupers or red snappers are stewed in a mixture of curry powder, asam (tamarind) juice, chilli peppers, coconut milk and a variety of other spices. Brinjal (eggplant) and okra are also added to the curry. It is served with white rice, and true devotees eat everything they can off the head – eyeballs and all – before mopping up the curry with crusty day-old bread.
The fish head curry at Soon Heng is good, but it is far from the best representation of the dish you can find, and also not even the main draw at the restaurant it gives its name to. The standouts at Soon Heng are the curry chicken wings and a spectacular squid dish – stewed in its own ink, with asam juice and onions. I remember going on a fishing trip with Jeremy one time and trying to explain to him how amazing this dish was – saying that the squid was “so black, that it looks green”. It made sense in my head as I said it, and he burst out into uncontrollable laughter not at the absurdity of the statement, but because he knew exactly what I meant.
My mother, bless her heart, bought me dinner the other day on her way back from a mahjong session – and at my request made the trip to Soon Heng. Like I said, I have never actually been there, so I don’t quite know where it is, nor what it looks like. I know that it is off Race Course Rd, and that is the extent of my knowledge.
If the standard of Soon Heng’s curry had slipped, I did not notice. Their curry is spicy but not overly so, but what I enjoy about it is its heft and incredible greasiness. I don’t think they add coconut milk to it, so it is a thick, aqueous liquid with some small visible chunks, glistening in a sheen of oil. The asam makes it nice and sour, and it is a perfect complement to meats; though I would be happy just slathering it on white rice and eating that alone.
It was with some apprehension that I tried the squid braised in its own ink. After so many years, I wondered if it would hold the same magic for me. When I think of the foods that define my childhood, this features prominently among them. The memory of the tart squid ink is something pure and unspoiled in my mind, and with one bite I risked losing that forever.
I need not have feared. The squid ink sauce was as sweet and tangy as ever, and the squid itself still fat and firm. It rendered me unable to speak, or even think, for several blissful seconds; and my mother rolled her eyes and looked at me like I was crazy.
It occurs to me that I cannot even objectively say that this restaurant is good. My opinion is coloured too much by memories from my childhood that even now, with a more discerning palate, there is still a soft spot in my heart for this place. One day I will actually make the trip to Soon Heng, and see for myself what other options there are. Yet maybe that day I will finally find something to be disappointed by, and I don’t know if I want to risk that or not.
39 Kinta Rd
Singapore 219108
+65 6294 6561
Soon Heng is somewhat of a personal Mecca for me, in that one day I must make the trip there. I have eaten their food many times: my grandmother used to buy their fish head curry and curry chicken, among other dishes – and as children we would eat them on our weekly visits to her house. For the longest time I thought my grandmother made those dishes herself, and I was strangely liberated when I found out that they were store-bought and realised that I, too, could have those dishes whenever I wanted them. For a price, of course. Yet even though I am intimately familiar with their cuisine, I have never actually been there, and I consider it a missing piece of my life story puzzle.
Fish head curry is a distinctly Singaporean dish – made possible by the city-state’s unique confluence of Chinese, Malay and Indian culinary traditions. The premise of the dish is simple – the heads of large fishes such as groupers or red snappers are stewed in a mixture of curry powder, asam (tamarind) juice, chilli peppers, coconut milk and a variety of other spices. Brinjal (eggplant) and okra are also added to the curry. It is served with white rice, and true devotees eat everything they can off the head – eyeballs and all – before mopping up the curry with crusty day-old bread.
The fish head curry at Soon Heng is good, but it is far from the best representation of the dish you can find, and also not even the main draw at the restaurant it gives its name to. The standouts at Soon Heng are the curry chicken wings and a spectacular squid dish – stewed in its own ink, with asam juice and onions. I remember going on a fishing trip with Jeremy one time and trying to explain to him how amazing this dish was – saying that the squid was “so black, that it looks green”. It made sense in my head as I said it, and he burst out into uncontrollable laughter not at the absurdity of the statement, but because he knew exactly what I meant.
My mother, bless her heart, bought me dinner the other day on her way back from a mahjong session – and at my request made the trip to Soon Heng. Like I said, I have never actually been there, so I don’t quite know where it is, nor what it looks like. I know that it is off Race Course Rd, and that is the extent of my knowledge.
If the standard of Soon Heng’s curry had slipped, I did not notice. Their curry is spicy but not overly so, but what I enjoy about it is its heft and incredible greasiness. I don’t think they add coconut milk to it, so it is a thick, aqueous liquid with some small visible chunks, glistening in a sheen of oil. The asam makes it nice and sour, and it is a perfect complement to meats; though I would be happy just slathering it on white rice and eating that alone.
It was with some apprehension that I tried the squid braised in its own ink. After so many years, I wondered if it would hold the same magic for me. When I think of the foods that define my childhood, this features prominently among them. The memory of the tart squid ink is something pure and unspoiled in my mind, and with one bite I risked losing that forever.
I need not have feared. The squid ink sauce was as sweet and tangy as ever, and the squid itself still fat and firm. It rendered me unable to speak, or even think, for several blissful seconds; and my mother rolled her eyes and looked at me like I was crazy.
It occurs to me that I cannot even objectively say that this restaurant is good. My opinion is coloured too much by memories from my childhood that even now, with a more discerning palate, there is still a soft spot in my heart for this place. One day I will actually make the trip to Soon Heng, and see for myself what other options there are. Yet maybe that day I will finally find something to be disappointed by, and I don’t know if I want to risk that or not.
Thursday, December 04, 2008
One man's meat
Ponggol Nasi Lemak Centre
238 Tanjong Katong Rd
+65 6348 3303
“Tous les goûts sont dans la nature.” – French proverb
Food is a sensitive subject, and one about which there is often a distinct opinion for each person at the table. In a nation where degustation is second nature, standards are high and patience for the mediocre wears thin easily. Singaporeans are the harshest critics when it comes to food, and word of mouth travels swiftly and unforgivingly in this tiny, highly-interconnected town. As a discerning eater, one must select one’s sources carefully, and take each recommendation with a pinch of salt.
I have found that taxi drivers are the best sources for where to get the truly great hawker food. They traverse the tiny island many times over in a single day, and the nature of their profession demands that they eat out often, and at a variety of locales. They exchange tips and recommendations easily amongst their kind, and that communal, ground-up approach to building a knowledge base means that any taxi driver worth his salt can tell you where to go if you want a particular dish.
Recommendations from friends, though, are more difficult to assess. One has to bear in mind how much of a foodie the friend offering the recommendation truly is, and whether he or she is operating with lesser standards than you are. I have learnt to distrust enthusiasm: true knowledge begets a considered approach. There are some among my group of friends who I have cast aside as veritable sources for food recommendations. Maybe our palates are different, maybe we care about food to different degrees.
In any case the voice of the people usually speaks the loudest – if the lines for a certain dish at a certain location are out the door, then it is probably worth a shot. Karen and I decided to follow this logic following the recommendation from one of our mutual friends, of a certain nasi lemak stall right by his house – at the corner of Tanjong Katong Rd and Parkstone Rd. Passing by the place on previous occasions, I had always seen an orderly throng of people braving the elements and waiting patiently outside to be served, and had made a mental note to try it at some point.
(If there is one thing that Singaporeans are born with an innate knowledge of and propensity for, it is waiting in line. Nobody ever complains about having to wait in line, and the line etiquette of Singaporeans is exemplary for the most part.)
Nasi lemak is a traditional Malay dish, translated literally as “rice in cream”. This refers to its cooking process – where rice is soaked in coconut cream and the mixture then steamed. Sometimes lemongrass is added, and sometimes this mixture is steamed wrapped in pandan leaves. The result is aromatic rice with a heady fragrance and comforting sweetness. This rice is usually then served with Malay staple side dishes – otak, ikan bilis, roasted peanuts, sambal belachan, fish cake, deep-fried chicken wings and others.
My go-to location for nasi lemak has historically been Changi Village, which has been around for ages but has never dipped in quality. The lines for that one are out of sight, and really pretty ridiculous considering that there are other stalls around it and in the vicinity serving other foods, yet none of them have so much as two people at any time lining up for their food. The only downsides about the Changi Village nasi lemak are that it is expensive (for a dish that is supposed to be affordable labourers’ fare) and also that it is fucking far away and a pain in the ass to get to.
So when Kevin recommended the Ponggol nasi lemak place right outside his house it only strengthened a groundswell of opinion that had included the hearty recommendations of the massage therapist I had gone to see the other day. Karen and I decided to come here after our plans to eat pepper crab were thwarted, and I really did want to like this place. It would have been a more accessible alternative to Changi Village if I had a nasi lemak fix. All said, there were some highlights, but overall this place was not extraordinary, and nowhere near worth all the hype and the long lines.
Ponggol Nasi Lemak is located along a row of small businesses on Tanjong Katong Rd, and for a roadside eatery has a remarkable level of cleanliness. It is well ventilated and brightly lit, which are qualities that are often taken for granted especially at roadside eateries. The staff move about with wordless efficiency, and the operation is – pardon the pun – very well-oiled. It brings to mind the Soup Nazi place near Columbus Circle in New York – one person scoops the rice for you at the counter, another takes your order for side dishes, and the third collects payment. The entire transaction can be completed in a matter of seconds.
There is an impressive array of side dishes to choose from, and in addition to the staples mentioned earlier there was fried okra, eggplant, French beans, luncheon meat, fish fingers, deep-fried prawn rolls, and many others I cannot remember. The selection is certainly a huge plus, but it made for much indecision on our parts as we waited in line.
It is not often that rice is the main attraction, but in this dish I suppose it is. The rice was cooked well, and had a sweet creamy taste that I thought could have been more prominent, but was delightful in and of itself. The deep-fried chicken wings and otak were also excellent, but other side dishes were less than inspiring. The French beans were underseasoned and a tad too crunchy, the sotong ball and fish cake devoid of flavour.
What truly makes or breaks any good nasi lemak is the accompanying sambal belachan. In making great sambal, there is a fine line between too sweet and too sour, between too grainy and too creamy. This version was definitely very good and hit all the right notes. I like my sambal a little smokier than the one we got here, but it was delicious nonetheless, and I lapped up almost every bit of the healthy dollop that Karen had slapped on my plate.
Perhaps it was the disappointment of not getting our first option, but we walked away from Ponggol Nasi Lemak with a slight tinge of regret. It had been good, no doubt, but not life-changing, and had perhaps been a little too hyped for us. We joked about never listening to another of Kevin’s recommendations, but I think we eventually decided to give him one more chance. If the next place he recommends is terrible, then I am afraid we shall have to strike him off the list permanently.
238 Tanjong Katong Rd
+65 6348 3303
“Tous les goûts sont dans la nature.” – French proverb
Food is a sensitive subject, and one about which there is often a distinct opinion for each person at the table. In a nation where degustation is second nature, standards are high and patience for the mediocre wears thin easily. Singaporeans are the harshest critics when it comes to food, and word of mouth travels swiftly and unforgivingly in this tiny, highly-interconnected town. As a discerning eater, one must select one’s sources carefully, and take each recommendation with a pinch of salt.
I have found that taxi drivers are the best sources for where to get the truly great hawker food. They traverse the tiny island many times over in a single day, and the nature of their profession demands that they eat out often, and at a variety of locales. They exchange tips and recommendations easily amongst their kind, and that communal, ground-up approach to building a knowledge base means that any taxi driver worth his salt can tell you where to go if you want a particular dish.
Recommendations from friends, though, are more difficult to assess. One has to bear in mind how much of a foodie the friend offering the recommendation truly is, and whether he or she is operating with lesser standards than you are. I have learnt to distrust enthusiasm: true knowledge begets a considered approach. There are some among my group of friends who I have cast aside as veritable sources for food recommendations. Maybe our palates are different, maybe we care about food to different degrees.
In any case the voice of the people usually speaks the loudest – if the lines for a certain dish at a certain location are out the door, then it is probably worth a shot. Karen and I decided to follow this logic following the recommendation from one of our mutual friends, of a certain nasi lemak stall right by his house – at the corner of Tanjong Katong Rd and Parkstone Rd. Passing by the place on previous occasions, I had always seen an orderly throng of people braving the elements and waiting patiently outside to be served, and had made a mental note to try it at some point.
(If there is one thing that Singaporeans are born with an innate knowledge of and propensity for, it is waiting in line. Nobody ever complains about having to wait in line, and the line etiquette of Singaporeans is exemplary for the most part.)
Nasi lemak is a traditional Malay dish, translated literally as “rice in cream”. This refers to its cooking process – where rice is soaked in coconut cream and the mixture then steamed. Sometimes lemongrass is added, and sometimes this mixture is steamed wrapped in pandan leaves. The result is aromatic rice with a heady fragrance and comforting sweetness. This rice is usually then served with Malay staple side dishes – otak, ikan bilis, roasted peanuts, sambal belachan, fish cake, deep-fried chicken wings and others.
My go-to location for nasi lemak has historically been Changi Village, which has been around for ages but has never dipped in quality. The lines for that one are out of sight, and really pretty ridiculous considering that there are other stalls around it and in the vicinity serving other foods, yet none of them have so much as two people at any time lining up for their food. The only downsides about the Changi Village nasi lemak are that it is expensive (for a dish that is supposed to be affordable labourers’ fare) and also that it is fucking far away and a pain in the ass to get to.
So when Kevin recommended the Ponggol nasi lemak place right outside his house it only strengthened a groundswell of opinion that had included the hearty recommendations of the massage therapist I had gone to see the other day. Karen and I decided to come here after our plans to eat pepper crab were thwarted, and I really did want to like this place. It would have been a more accessible alternative to Changi Village if I had a nasi lemak fix. All said, there were some highlights, but overall this place was not extraordinary, and nowhere near worth all the hype and the long lines.
Ponggol Nasi Lemak is located along a row of small businesses on Tanjong Katong Rd, and for a roadside eatery has a remarkable level of cleanliness. It is well ventilated and brightly lit, which are qualities that are often taken for granted especially at roadside eateries. The staff move about with wordless efficiency, and the operation is – pardon the pun – very well-oiled. It brings to mind the Soup Nazi place near Columbus Circle in New York – one person scoops the rice for you at the counter, another takes your order for side dishes, and the third collects payment. The entire transaction can be completed in a matter of seconds.
There is an impressive array of side dishes to choose from, and in addition to the staples mentioned earlier there was fried okra, eggplant, French beans, luncheon meat, fish fingers, deep-fried prawn rolls, and many others I cannot remember. The selection is certainly a huge plus, but it made for much indecision on our parts as we waited in line.
It is not often that rice is the main attraction, but in this dish I suppose it is. The rice was cooked well, and had a sweet creamy taste that I thought could have been more prominent, but was delightful in and of itself. The deep-fried chicken wings and otak were also excellent, but other side dishes were less than inspiring. The French beans were underseasoned and a tad too crunchy, the sotong ball and fish cake devoid of flavour.
What truly makes or breaks any good nasi lemak is the accompanying sambal belachan. In making great sambal, there is a fine line between too sweet and too sour, between too grainy and too creamy. This version was definitely very good and hit all the right notes. I like my sambal a little smokier than the one we got here, but it was delicious nonetheless, and I lapped up almost every bit of the healthy dollop that Karen had slapped on my plate.
Perhaps it was the disappointment of not getting our first option, but we walked away from Ponggol Nasi Lemak with a slight tinge of regret. It had been good, no doubt, but not life-changing, and had perhaps been a little too hyped for us. We joked about never listening to another of Kevin’s recommendations, but I think we eventually decided to give him one more chance. If the next place he recommends is terrible, then I am afraid we shall have to strike him off the list permanently.
Hot Stuff
Thanksgiving came and went in Singapore last week without so much as a whimper, and if not for the blow-by-blow reports of extreme eating from the usual suspects back in the States, I would have been none the wiser. It is not a holiday we celebrate here, but it is a tradition I have come to appreciate having experienced it several times over the last couple of years. The practice of giving thanks, in particular, is one we all could use a little more of. I know it is not every family that is deliberate about this, but I do think that at the pace we live in these days - it is sometimes difficult remembering to express our gratitude for the small mercies that get us through the day.
Besides, it is not every day that we are permitted, even encouraged, to eat and drink to excess. I spent Thanksgiving at the Salgado household twice and both times the amount of food laid out before us was staggering. Both years we struggled manfully to even make a dent in the spread, and each time we swore never to touch turkey again. Of course, we ate nothing but turkey the next couple of days, and obviously we did it all over again the next year.
I’m not sure if I am expressing a controversial opinion here but I do believe that my favourite traditional Thanksgiving food is the stuffing. I can’t get enough of it, especially the stuffing that has been cooked in the turkey. If done right it is moist and flavoured with the juices of the turkey, yet the faint crunch of the pre-toasted bread is still present, and the aroma of the herbs fills the air. Eating turkey with stuffing elevates it to a different level, because the flavours used in stuffing – typically intense, usually herb-based – are a perfect foil for the lightness of the turkey meat.
The one year that I made stuffing for Thanksgiving, I asked Morgan’s mother to send me her recipe – for Morgan had made it for us once before and I remembered it to be delightful. She duly obliged, with the caveat that she “sounded like a mother” in the recipes. I was later very thankful for this fact, because what sounded like a mother’s words to her was in fact invaluable practical advice that is so often missing in traditional recipes.
There is an art to writing a good recipe that I believe is often overlooked. I don’t use a lot of recipes, but when I do – I don’t particularly care for the amounts and the quantities of the ingredients, or sometimes even the ingredients themselves. I add however much I want to taste, or switch out the ingredients if I want to work with something else. I don’t particularly care for the steps laid out in the recipe either, because most of it is common sense. What I am looking out for in a recipe is information on how the ingredients are going to react to being manipulated, and what to do about it. I want to know what is going to happen when I subject something to heat, with any number of heating methods; or what is going to happen when I leave something out in the open for a period of time. I want to know what to look out for to tell when something is done. In essence, when I look at a recipe I want to understand not how to create the final product, but rather how to work with the ingredients involved to get the best out of them.
I can think of a particular example. When I first started cooking I attempted to work with eggplant one night – and must have read several different recipes I found online, hoping to extract the best out of all of them. I thought I had made a decent fist of the recipes, but the eventual dish was bitter beyond belief, and had an unforgiving texture. I later found out that you were supposed to salt eggplant heavily before even working with them – drawing out their moisture and degorging them of the bitter liquid that is found within their seeds. It made me positively mad that none of the recipes I read had even mentioned this. To me, this is exactly the kind of information that you should include in a recipe.
And so it was that I was thankful for clear, concise and common-sense instructions within Morgan’s family recipe for stuffing. Understanding the recipe not as a series of steps or chronological events, but rather as a field guide to ingredients and the nature of the activities required to transform them – gives any reader a whole hell of a lot more useful information. It gave me the license and confidence to adapt the recipe and fashion it in a direction more aligned with what I wanted to make and eat.
So here it is, my adapted version of Thanksgiving stuffing. Apart from some minor tweaks to the ingredients I have also added a couple more. I put shitake mushrooms in the stuffing because firstly I like the taste, and secondly mushrooms release a lot of water when cooked, and this helps to keep the stuffing from drying out. Also, I include dried cranberries because I think they add an additional texture, and the dried fruit complements the veal very well if you are eating the stuffing by itself as a casserole.
Thanksgiving Veal Stuffing with Cranberries (inspired by Janet Lindgren)
About 10 cups of crusty, country-style white bread, cut into 1/3-inch cubes. [This will make more than you can put in the turkey. Make less or bake the rest in a casserole]
1 Tablespoon butter
1 Tablespoon olive oil
¾ cup finely diced onions
¾ cup finely diced leeks
¾ cup finely diced carrots
¾ cup finely diced celery
1 cup diced shitake mushrooms
3 Tablespoons chopped fresh sage
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
½ cup dry white wine (or stock)
1 pound ground veal
2 slices country bacon, chopped coarsely into bits
½ cup (packed) chopped fresh parsley
1 cup dried cranberries
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup (about) canned chicken broth
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread bread on 2 large rimmed baking sheets. Bake until golden brown, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes.
In a roasting pan, combine onions, leeks, carrots and celery and drizzle with olive oil. Bake in the oven with the bread cubes for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally – until top layer has a golden tinge but is not yet browned.
Melt butter with oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Brown veal and cook through, breaking up with the back of a fork. Remove and set aside. Add bacon and fry until fat is rendered. Add onions, leeks, carrots and celery and sauté about 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and sauté for further 4 minutes. Add sage; sauté 1 minute. Add wine. Boil until wine evaporates, about 1 minute. Add veal back in and cook further for about 2-3 minutes. Cool slightly.
(Bread and veal mixture can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover separately. Store bread at room temperature; refrigerate veal mixture.)
(Some recipes for stuffing call for the bread cubes to be further broken up into crumbs with the use of a food processor. Personally, I like the cubes better.)
Stir veal mixture, parsley and cranberries into bread cubes. Whisk eggs, salt, nutmeg and pepper in medium bowl. Mix into stuffing. If seems too dry add more broth. Will get moister in the bird. Will get drier in a casserole.
(When stuffing the turkey, do not pack it in tightly. Leave about 1/4 of the cavity unfilled; the stuffing will expand as the bird roasts.)
Besides, it is not every day that we are permitted, even encouraged, to eat and drink to excess. I spent Thanksgiving at the Salgado household twice and both times the amount of food laid out before us was staggering. Both years we struggled manfully to even make a dent in the spread, and each time we swore never to touch turkey again. Of course, we ate nothing but turkey the next couple of days, and obviously we did it all over again the next year.
I’m not sure if I am expressing a controversial opinion here but I do believe that my favourite traditional Thanksgiving food is the stuffing. I can’t get enough of it, especially the stuffing that has been cooked in the turkey. If done right it is moist and flavoured with the juices of the turkey, yet the faint crunch of the pre-toasted bread is still present, and the aroma of the herbs fills the air. Eating turkey with stuffing elevates it to a different level, because the flavours used in stuffing – typically intense, usually herb-based – are a perfect foil for the lightness of the turkey meat.
The one year that I made stuffing for Thanksgiving, I asked Morgan’s mother to send me her recipe – for Morgan had made it for us once before and I remembered it to be delightful. She duly obliged, with the caveat that she “sounded like a mother” in the recipes. I was later very thankful for this fact, because what sounded like a mother’s words to her was in fact invaluable practical advice that is so often missing in traditional recipes.
There is an art to writing a good recipe that I believe is often overlooked. I don’t use a lot of recipes, but when I do – I don’t particularly care for the amounts and the quantities of the ingredients, or sometimes even the ingredients themselves. I add however much I want to taste, or switch out the ingredients if I want to work with something else. I don’t particularly care for the steps laid out in the recipe either, because most of it is common sense. What I am looking out for in a recipe is information on how the ingredients are going to react to being manipulated, and what to do about it. I want to know what is going to happen when I subject something to heat, with any number of heating methods; or what is going to happen when I leave something out in the open for a period of time. I want to know what to look out for to tell when something is done. In essence, when I look at a recipe I want to understand not how to create the final product, but rather how to work with the ingredients involved to get the best out of them.
I can think of a particular example. When I first started cooking I attempted to work with eggplant one night – and must have read several different recipes I found online, hoping to extract the best out of all of them. I thought I had made a decent fist of the recipes, but the eventual dish was bitter beyond belief, and had an unforgiving texture. I later found out that you were supposed to salt eggplant heavily before even working with them – drawing out their moisture and degorging them of the bitter liquid that is found within their seeds. It made me positively mad that none of the recipes I read had even mentioned this. To me, this is exactly the kind of information that you should include in a recipe.
And so it was that I was thankful for clear, concise and common-sense instructions within Morgan’s family recipe for stuffing. Understanding the recipe not as a series of steps or chronological events, but rather as a field guide to ingredients and the nature of the activities required to transform them – gives any reader a whole hell of a lot more useful information. It gave me the license and confidence to adapt the recipe and fashion it in a direction more aligned with what I wanted to make and eat.
So here it is, my adapted version of Thanksgiving stuffing. Apart from some minor tweaks to the ingredients I have also added a couple more. I put shitake mushrooms in the stuffing because firstly I like the taste, and secondly mushrooms release a lot of water when cooked, and this helps to keep the stuffing from drying out. Also, I include dried cranberries because I think they add an additional texture, and the dried fruit complements the veal very well if you are eating the stuffing by itself as a casserole.
Thanksgiving Veal Stuffing with Cranberries (inspired by Janet Lindgren)
About 10 cups of crusty, country-style white bread, cut into 1/3-inch cubes. [This will make more than you can put in the turkey. Make less or bake the rest in a casserole]
1 Tablespoon butter
1 Tablespoon olive oil
¾ cup finely diced onions
¾ cup finely diced leeks
¾ cup finely diced carrots
¾ cup finely diced celery
1 cup diced shitake mushrooms
3 Tablespoons chopped fresh sage
2 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons fresh thyme leaves
½ cup dry white wine (or stock)
1 pound ground veal
2 slices country bacon, chopped coarsely into bits
½ cup (packed) chopped fresh parsley
1 cup dried cranberries
3 large eggs
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1 teaspoon ground black pepper
1 cup (about) canned chicken broth
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Spread bread on 2 large rimmed baking sheets. Bake until golden brown, stirring occasionally, about 30 minutes.
In a roasting pan, combine onions, leeks, carrots and celery and drizzle with olive oil. Bake in the oven with the bread cubes for about 20 minutes, stirring occasionally – until top layer has a golden tinge but is not yet browned.
Melt butter with oil in heavy large skillet over medium-high heat. Brown veal and cook through, breaking up with the back of a fork. Remove and set aside. Add bacon and fry until fat is rendered. Add onions, leeks, carrots and celery and sauté about 2 minutes. Add mushrooms and sauté for further 4 minutes. Add sage; sauté 1 minute. Add wine. Boil until wine evaporates, about 1 minute. Add veal back in and cook further for about 2-3 minutes. Cool slightly.
(Bread and veal mixture can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover separately. Store bread at room temperature; refrigerate veal mixture.)
(Some recipes for stuffing call for the bread cubes to be further broken up into crumbs with the use of a food processor. Personally, I like the cubes better.)
Stir veal mixture, parsley and cranberries into bread cubes. Whisk eggs, salt, nutmeg and pepper in medium bowl. Mix into stuffing. If seems too dry add more broth. Will get moister in the bird. Will get drier in a casserole.
(When stuffing the turkey, do not pack it in tightly. Leave about 1/4 of the cavity unfilled; the stuffing will expand as the bird roasts.)
Wednesday, December 03, 2008
Pasta mia
Noodles are quite possibly my favourite starch, and if not then they are second only to bread. They are a wonderfully versatile medium, able to carry a multitude of different flavours; and are equally capable of being either the centerpiece or merely a foil for a main protein. As a dish, it is easily scalable in quantity, so you can serve however large or small a portion as an appetiser, an entrée or simply just a snack. Best of all, it is food you can play with on your plate.
It may go unnoticed by the average diner, but noodles are an integral part of Singaporean cuisine. Rice noodles, wheat noodles, egg noodles; you can get noodles in all shapes and sizes – thick or thin, long or short, wide or slender. Some of our most popular dishes are noodle dishes – hokkien mee, char kway teow, mee goreng, wonton mee. So why is it then, for the love of God, that I cannot get a decent plate of pasta in this town?
I had a plate of linguine marinara with lobster at Privé the other day, and was thoroughly unimpressed. First of all, the pasta was not house-made. There is something about fresh, homemade pasta that just tastes a thousand times better. I think it is because when pasta is made fresh, in non-industrial size quantities – the ratio of egg to flour is always higher. This is primarily to help bind the starch but it also sweetens the pasta and masks the grainy flavour of the wheat in the eventual product. Even allowing for uninspired pasta, the tomatoes in the marinara were bitter (easily overcome with the addition of milk or cream to the sauce) and the lobster tough and overcooked. It was poorly seasoned – no basil, too little oregano, and all I tasted was salt. It was a deflating experience eating that pasta, and if not for the delightful conversation I would have been thoroughly miserable.
Perhaps I have been spoiled. I think back mostly to Annie’s pumpkin ravioli in Bologna, but also I think back to my many trips up to New York City – where Italian food (and food in general) is quite excellent indeed. I had a truly great pasta with clams and spring onion pesto at Felidia, and a wonderful ricotta cannelloni at Lo Scalco, which has since closed. Our night at Babbo in October 2007 was nothing short of magical. Pasta and organ meats? There is no better life, really. Even in DC where there was no great Italian, Al Crostino on U St was always a decent time, and the chef genuine and gregarious enough to compensate for any failings in the food.
There are a couple of supposedly great Italian places in Singapore – Garibaldi on Purvis St, San Marco at One Fullerton. I have not been to these places, so perhaps it is premature to write off Italian cuisine in Singapore. I will say, though, that it is difficult for true Italian – be it modern or rustic – to succeed in Singapore. If anything, a fusion place like Buku Nero in Tanjong Pagar has more chance of success. For one, there is a lot of cheese and dairy in Italian food; and the Singaporean palate just does not skew that way. But the locally available varieties of basic herbs and spices – basil, pepper and so forth – just do not taste the same as they do in Western Europe. Cured pork products and organ meats, though, should appeal more broadly to the Singaporean diner. And if any restaurant can serve up truly transcendent pasta – made well enough to rival the local noodle dishes – then maybe, just maybe, it will do well.
Until then, however, I will stick to hokkien mee.
It may go unnoticed by the average diner, but noodles are an integral part of Singaporean cuisine. Rice noodles, wheat noodles, egg noodles; you can get noodles in all shapes and sizes – thick or thin, long or short, wide or slender. Some of our most popular dishes are noodle dishes – hokkien mee, char kway teow, mee goreng, wonton mee. So why is it then, for the love of God, that I cannot get a decent plate of pasta in this town?
I had a plate of linguine marinara with lobster at Privé the other day, and was thoroughly unimpressed. First of all, the pasta was not house-made. There is something about fresh, homemade pasta that just tastes a thousand times better. I think it is because when pasta is made fresh, in non-industrial size quantities – the ratio of egg to flour is always higher. This is primarily to help bind the starch but it also sweetens the pasta and masks the grainy flavour of the wheat in the eventual product. Even allowing for uninspired pasta, the tomatoes in the marinara were bitter (easily overcome with the addition of milk or cream to the sauce) and the lobster tough and overcooked. It was poorly seasoned – no basil, too little oregano, and all I tasted was salt. It was a deflating experience eating that pasta, and if not for the delightful conversation I would have been thoroughly miserable.
Perhaps I have been spoiled. I think back mostly to Annie’s pumpkin ravioli in Bologna, but also I think back to my many trips up to New York City – where Italian food (and food in general) is quite excellent indeed. I had a truly great pasta with clams and spring onion pesto at Felidia, and a wonderful ricotta cannelloni at Lo Scalco, which has since closed. Our night at Babbo in October 2007 was nothing short of magical. Pasta and organ meats? There is no better life, really. Even in DC where there was no great Italian, Al Crostino on U St was always a decent time, and the chef genuine and gregarious enough to compensate for any failings in the food.
There are a couple of supposedly great Italian places in Singapore – Garibaldi on Purvis St, San Marco at One Fullerton. I have not been to these places, so perhaps it is premature to write off Italian cuisine in Singapore. I will say, though, that it is difficult for true Italian – be it modern or rustic – to succeed in Singapore. If anything, a fusion place like Buku Nero in Tanjong Pagar has more chance of success. For one, there is a lot of cheese and dairy in Italian food; and the Singaporean palate just does not skew that way. But the locally available varieties of basic herbs and spices – basil, pepper and so forth – just do not taste the same as they do in Western Europe. Cured pork products and organ meats, though, should appeal more broadly to the Singaporean diner. And if any restaurant can serve up truly transcendent pasta – made well enough to rival the local noodle dishes – then maybe, just maybe, it will do well.
Until then, however, I will stick to hokkien mee.
Monday, December 01, 2008
The Culinary Delights of Bed-Stuy
It seems like a long time ago that I moved into this neighborhood, Bedford-Stuyvesant in my adopted Brooklyn. At the time I wrote, Coming soon: The culinary options (delights?) of Bed-Stuy. I can say now, with authority, that there are some truly great food options around my way.
The highlight, and my go to spot these days is Ali's Trinidad Roti Shop, near Fulton and Nostrand Aves. This place is great, there's always a line leading up to the security glass. On my first visit I had only a vague conception of what a roti was, much less the pholorie, the aloo pie, the bake, the doubles, the sorrel or the mauby. I found that a good option is to ask the guy or girl in front of you what they're having and what it is, everybody loves making friends, right? I've also found when the lady behind the glass hollers "Ya want PEPPAH?!" The correct answer is "Yes, please." A roti is an extremely hearty west-indian burrito-esque wrap. The wrapper is made from lentil flour and is nice and chewy; it has the durability to hold to truly incredible amount of food that it is laden with. They come in any number of flavahs: Goat, chicken, beef, shrimp, oxtail, or potato with chickpeas (channa). At $5.50 and weighing in at about a pound and a half of meat, gravy and potatoes, these things are prodigious and a prodigious bargain. The only thing that you have to watch out for is the bones. It may seem odd to make a sandwich with a gang of chicken or goat bones in it, but at these prices and when the food is this good, sometimes you just have to work around it. Also, you can't just change things. I haven't gotten to try the aloo pie (yet) but I have tried the pholourie (savory fried dough w/spicy tamarind sauce) $2, the doubles (naan-ish bread filled with spicy chickpeas and folded over to made a sandwich) $1, and my personal favorite the bake and salt fish, $3. Imagine: savory fried dough, cut open, filled with bacalhau, cabbage, onions, tomatoes and hot pepper. It doesn't get much better than that. I love this place, and I love how nice the people who work there are... The prices are great and there's always something new to try.
The "Papaya Dog" is definitely as dirty as it looks. But it's also open 24/7, which places a philly cheese steak within 2 blocks at all times. And it is CHEAP, as dirt cheap as it is dirty. Unfortunately their papaya drink is chalky and horrible. As I say, you can't have it all.
I haven't tried any of the fried chicken joints in the 'hood yet. I like fried chicken, but I only crave it a couple of times a year. Perhaps that will be the next frontier.
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