California Dreamin'

"Cuisine is like a fireworks display; nothing remains. It is “une fête, rapide éphémerale” - Paul Bocuse

On a recent trip to San Francisco I had the chance to eat at a restaurant called La Folie, or what translates roughly into "The Madness" in French. All the staples of classic French food were there - foie gras (albeit of the Hudson Valley variety), terrines, forcemeats, rabbit, etc. Needless to say, I was delighted, although my waistline probably did not need it. It was excellent food, very fresh and I soon saw where the "madness" manifested itself. The presentations were all controlled chaos, explosions of contours and colours that I took great pleasure in dismantling.

This was a terrine of warm pig's feet, sweetbread and lobster. One could tell that it was French because the tang of dijon mustard was unmistakable.


Lobster with butternut squash ravioli - with a cute pumpkin touch.


Salmon with smoked ham hock and sweet onion sauce.


Trio of rabbit - loin, rack and braised leg. I love rabbit, there is something so delicate yet arrestingly flavourful about it. I read somewhere that in the south of France wild rabbits subsist on a diet of thyme and sage - natural seasoning, if you will - and that they are delicious.


One thing that struck me about my trip to San Francisco was how prominently figs featured in the cuisine of the region. They were everywhere! From appetisers to entrees to desserts. For my part I could barely contain myself. Here is a mission fig tarte tartin with goat cheese sorbet.


On our trip out to wine country we also stopped for lunch in St Helena at a lovely little place called Cindy's Backstreet Kitchen. It was on a street off the main drag - hence the name - but this also reminded me somewhat of going to Pastiche in Providence, where you have to peel off Atwells onto the smaller back street of Spruce. It gave me a good feeling walking in and even though we did not get to sit outside, the interior was lit beautifully by the warm Californian sunshine, and it felt almost as good.

Here is a fig flatbread.


And, just for Reed, a close-up. Eat that, Reedy.


These were listed on the menu as Incredible Mushroom Tamales, which sounded very appetising. I asked our waitress what she thought of them and she replied, "Oh, they're very good." I am disinclined to ever believe any waiter who says that without explaining why they think so. For once in my life I would like to hear someone tell me the truth and say, "Oh, they're not very good in my opinion - you have to really like X." or something along those lines. But she had kind eyes and a great smile and so I was suckered into ordering the tamales. They were a good way short of incredible, I'll tell you that.





Photos from La Folie courtesy of Ms Camille Chow